Saturday, October 31, 2009

Pedro was here


Spain is bigger than you think it is. I was planning a little 2-3 day trip to get out of town and decided to visit a couple of places Charlie and Ann stayed on their way back home to Southern France. I pulled out our guide book and decided we’d spend a day in Segovia and then drive north to Zaragoza and then loop back around to Madrid. We had a nice time in Segovia, enjoyed a long visit at Alcázar, the local castle, and got in the car to zip off to our next destination, Zaragoza. That’s when I pulled the map out for the first time. I mean, that’s the first time that I pulled out the road map. In the guide book my plan looked good, but the reality of Spain is a lot like Nevada - a lot of wide open desert. There are no direct roads from Segovia to Zaragoza; you either have to essentially back track to Madrid then take the highway back north to Zaragoza, or take small windy roads. We did a quick survey and decided that we should see some of Spain that we hadn’t seen yet – and take the back roads. What I had thought was going to be an easy two hour drive was quickly becoming four or five hours in the car with two slightly cranky kids and poor Cynthia in the backseat with them.

Central Spain looks so much like Nevada that you could be forgiven for asking yourself why you chose the long route just to see landscape that looks just like home. So when Jack spotted a sign for a quick diversion, again the votes tallied in favor of a checking out Pedro’s hermitage. Why not? We were looking for something of interest.


We wound our way off mapped roads following signs to Pedro. Many giggles emanated from backseat where the Napoleon Dynamite fans were hoping to catch a glimpse of a more contemporary Pedro.

When we finally rolled into the little pueblo of Pedro, we found a dump on the way in and a little church with a swing set.


Our car attracted the attention of the locals who came out to see who was passing by, and we wondered if anyone else had ever followed those highway signs to Pedro’s place before. Cynthia and Anna gave the swings a try and just as we were getting back in the car, a man yelled at us and pointed down a dirt road. Our read, “Dudes, the hermitage is down this way.” So we had a lovely walk in the autumn air and eventually found the hermitage.


That’s it. The hermitage we drove half an hour out of our way to find.

No info about who Pedro was, why his little place is still there, or why there’s a sign on the highway miles away pointing pilgrims to the site. When I got home, I did my best to uncover Pedro’s secret on-line. Alas, his story remains a secret. And our pilgrimage to his humble shed a pleasant diversion from our road trip to Zaragoza. Next stop Zaragoza – Mary was there.

Friday, October 30, 2009

Segovia's unexpected treasure trove


It’s not the big sites or events that really make a trip for me. It’s the details. Segovia is famous for its beautiful Roman aquaduct. It is fabulous. Breathtaking. An engineering marvel. I loved seeing it. But, it wasn’t what captured my attention in Segovia.

Segovia is one the many cities in Spain where the Moorish influence is very strong. You see it in the design of all important buildings. And as I wandered around, I started to see potential in these designs.

It started as a small idea. I saw a design on the side of a building that I thought would be perfect for a garden stepping stone. Before we left Reno, I planned to buy a concrete mold to make stepping stones for a path through the lavender and yarrow in our front yard. The molds I could find were about 18 inches round or square. You pour concrete in them, let them cure, and voila, you have a lovely step for your garden path. Last summer I didn’t have the time to execute the plan. But it’s still percolating in the back of my mind. So when I saw the perfect Moorish design for my front yard path, I started wondering how to turn that design into a mold.

Before I knew it, the walls of Segovia were covered in stepping stones designs. I took pictures of each one; I was obsessed. Lucky for me, our friend Cynthia was with us, and she was right there with me. She moved from concrete to fabric and paper. Notecards, home decorating, rubber stamps. The applications are endless. I kept snapping away and developing business plans. Whew. What a whorlwind that trip to Segovia was!








Friday, October 23, 2009

The Dia Zone Daily

All the regulars were working The Dia Zone door this evening: Jack’s friend Christian from Sudan (who speaks much better English than we do Spanish), Nipple Shaver Man, and the woman who has been seen on occasion picking things out of Nipple Man’s hair. When we approached, Nipple Man and the woman (as yet nameless) had quite a crowd stopped at the entrance. She appeared to be offering a service that looked suspiciously like she was checking people’s ears for something. Alex declined my offer to support an ear check for him. We walked in with a chuckling old woman. Sure, she could understand what was really going on.

Inside: Bienvenido a la Zona del Dia!/Welcome to The Dia Zone! As ever, there was the post-purchase line waiting for change. But today, I came prepared with small bills so I could walk right by those guys who bought a six pack with a €50 note. Today, I had no intention of having an embarrassment-induced hot flash in this store!

On the way out, Alex asked if I had the requisite small change ready for our friend Christian. Jack’s away, so I’m on duty doling out Christian’s allotment. I had change ready for both Christian and the woman. For some reason I was prepared for two beggars but not three. So on the way out I handed change to both Christian and the woman. And as I walked away Nipple Man complained bitterly to the others: “She gave me nada! Nada!” Alex was a little embarrassed at my oversight. So I got some more change out that Alex could go back and give to Nipple Man. Alas, Alex refused. But emboldened by a language victory at the previous store, I decide to go back and even it up for Nipple Man. Really, it was unfair of me.

His eyes opened wide as I walked right up to him. He had no idea what was coming. I dropped the change into his hand. “Para tí. Lo siento./For you. I’m sorry.” He gave me bows of gratitude. “Muchas gracias. Muchas gracias, senora!” And I walked away with the smug satisfaction that I answered his complaint because I actually understood what he said. We both scored.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

On the rails

She was the last person off the train, left behind the others as they left the Metro station. She was probably 25, dressed in jeans. We watched her alone on the platform from across the tracks while we waited for our train. She moved slowly, wavering toward the edge of the platform. Everything was happening very slowly, even when her leg gave way and her whole body folded up and rolled off the platform, skidded down the wall and onto the tracks. She lay between the rails, semiconscious and barely moving. It was so unthinkable to see her body lying on the tracks that a stillness and silence took control of everyone on our platform.

The third rail is on the ceiling in the Madrid Metro, making jumping onto the tracks slightly less terrifying than one might imagine. The threat comes solely from being crushed by a train, not from being electrocuted as well. Nonetheless, I was shocked and horrified and relieved to see Jack down on the tracks running to help the limp body. There were fewer than four minutes until the next westbound train would pass where her body lay, and fewer still until the next eastbound train sliced by inches away. No one other than Jack was acting to help this woman, but everyone must have had an image the train running her over in their minds.

The strange quiet continued until Jack looked up and started yelling “Medico! Medico!” Someone on the platform took the charge and began yelling for a doctor, and someone ran up the stairway in search of more help. A crowd grew on our platform, watching Jack bend down to talk to the woman. One other man jumped down to help for a moment, but was quickly gone. In the moment, Jack could not remember any Spanish so was useless in communicating with the woman. She was barely alert and not aware of her situation.

Then the proximity of the approaching trains weighed down on the entire station. A light from the eastbound train charged toward the station. Frantic, I began to wave my arms and scream, “Stop! Stop! Para! Para!” At last the crowd began to act, joining in the effort to stop the train, to catch the engineer’s attention.

The eastbound train slowed and stopped before entering the station. But Jack and the woman remained close to the westbound train’s entrance, and a bend in the tunnel meant that little time was available to wave the engineer to a halt. Jack’s mind raced through the possibilities. The woman was too heavy to lift out of the tracks. If the train did not stop, she could lie perfectly still and the train would pass over her. Jack would jump to the safety of the eastbound tracks. She might be untouched. Or, if anything went wrong, we would all witness her horrendous death.

Perhaps in my panic I couldn’t see or hear anything other than Jack and the woman together on the tracks. My memory is focused on Jack desperate to help the woman and stop the trains, while in my peripheral vision, I see the crowd mostly quiet or murmuring, but not helping. I handed my cell phone to a man standing next to me. “No hablo español! Call for help. Call for help.” Another woman looked at me and asked me something that I couldn’t understand. I told her that Jack couldn’t speak Spanish and someone else needed to help Jack talk to the woman lying on the tracks. Still no one else was helping. Two men in Metro uniforms appeared. I couldn’t see that they were making any effort to communicate with the approaching train, and they certainly weren’t helping to move the woman off the tracks.

By the time the westbound train appeared, the crowd was yelling again “Para! Para!” Who knows if there was a system in place to stop the train. When the light appeared around the bend, arms were waving, people were screaming, and I can only hope that someone somewhere had already communicated to the engineer to stop. He brought the train far closer to the scene than you might imagine a good system would have allowed. The approaching train stopped just outside the station.

With both trains stopped, and crowds growing on both platforms, the engineer of one of the trains got onto the tracks and went to help the woman. Jack jumped back up onto the platform. The woman was groggy and dazed as the engineer spoke with her and then helped her stagger over to a ladder where she climbed to safety.

It was very dangerous of Jack to jump down onto the tracks. But the lack of action of the others lead him to believe that if someone did not, the woman would have no chance. I thought in the moment that a handful of strong men would take immediate action and lift her from the tracks and back onto the platform. Reflecting back on it, it would, of course, have been more dangerous to have a half dozen people on the tracks. But none meant that she was more likely to been unseen and without any help.

Later that day on our way home, we stopped at the station’s service window to ask how the lady was. The station manager said that she was fine, but wagged his finger at Jack saying to never go down on the tracks again. And then, he looked him in the eye and said, “Gracias.”

Our friend Ysabel has told us stories of moments when a person was in need, and a crowd stood around and stared. One time a woman was in labor at the post office. Ysabel calmed her down and then drove her to the hospital while the others stood by and watched. Another time Ysabel was hit by a truck and had to take command of the situation herself, yelling orders at passersby.

The woman on the platform was the second person I’ve seen pass out in Madrid. The other time a teenage girl at a bookstore collapsed in front of a long line of people waiting to buy text books. I thought then of Ysabel’s stories. The girl’s mother was there and it was clearly most appropriate for her to take charge of the situation. And certainly I was in no position to help, being deaf and dumb in Spanish while dozens of others had the ability to call for help or assist. But in the end, I felt inadequate and insensitive for merely standing by and watching with the rest of the crowd. As at the Metro station, I was dumbfounded by the passivity and insensitivity of the crowd.

Jack and I each have a picture in our minds of that woman lying alone on the tracks needing help. Jack said it took him two seconds to decide what to do, that he once vowed to himself to never allow another person to be hurt when he could give aid.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Notas para me

España es engorde.
Corrección: Viviendo en España es engorde.
Corrección: Viviendo en nuestro piso es engorde.
Corrección: Heather esta engordando.

Muy triste.

El mes pasado, yo engordé.
No me gusta engordar.
Este mes, estoy patinando y no estoy usando el acensor.
Entonces, no engordaré mas.

Es verdad.

Para practicar

Preterito
engordé
engordáste
engordó
engordamos
engordastáis
engordaron

Preterito perfecto
he engordado
has engordado
ha engordado
hemos engordado
habéis engordado
han engordado

Presente
no engordo
no engordas
no engorda
no engordamos
no engordáis
no engordan

Futuro
no engordaré
no engordarás
no engordará
no engordaremos
no engordaréis
no engordarán

Imperativo
no engordes

Rollercoaster ride


In the end it was a good week, though tough. Every day either started or ended with some sort of mini-crisis. But every day also held some sort of victory or accomplishment or moment of delight. I think most days also had a least one moment of hysteria - as in uncontrollable laughter - not as in freaking out. Jack thinks it's the same thing for me, and maybe it is, but if it's a fit of uncontrollable laughter it's better than a fit of uncontrollable tears. And just a point, I've only had one fit of uncontrollable tears since we've been here.

Each kid had their own personal meltdown when they (almost) refused to go to school. Alex ended up skipping the first hour one day, and Anna came home a couple hours early the next day. (One learned from the other?)

On the other hand, they both made progress on starting friendships. Poco a poco, as the Spaniards always tell us.

Jack and I met with one of Alex's teachers. Mark this up as a hysterically funny event. Imagine Professor Umbridge talking to deaf and dumb (in a manner of speaking) foreign student's parents. I was able to control myself enough to get out of the building and down the street before I laughed out loud. We weren't able to get Alex out of the dreadful class - yet - but we're working on it.

Some moms at Anna's school stopped and talked to me at drop off time. As all moms know, this is HUGE. I'm incredibly greatful to the mom who generously stopped to talk to me. Mark this one up as big potential for socialization for both Anna and me.

My internal soundtrack is the single line: People are strange when you're a stranger on endless loop. I'm trying to be Buddhist about it and accept the discomfort.

We stretched ourselves farther from The Dia Zone. We had many delightful interactions with shop keepers in small market stalls and bakeries, etc. We visited a market where you can buy every single part of an animal - ears, stomach, brains, balls, hairy goat snouts. I opted for the pimientos de Padron instead. I'm still pretty confused about when you're allowed to pick out your own produce and when you have to let the market keeper select and bag it for you. But no one actually yelled at me.

I realized that if I stay calm I can speak (sort of) Spanish. At various times during the week I was able to enjoy putting together the roughest of language to converse. Even simply thanking Benito for helping us get rid of the itchy old mattress was rewarding.

Anna, Alex and I made the long Metro trek to the sports equipment store and bought ourselves rollerblades. We had to find some way to get out and exercise. Don't worry, Dad, we got pads and helmets, too. No injuries to report from our maiden voyage. Today we're heading over to Retiro, where everyone goes to rollerskate.

And the most wonderful part of the week was having Ysabel, our Spanish guardian angel, over for dinner last night. We could show off our growing language skills (she always wants to hear how our Spanish is coming along), and I could present her with the socks I'd knit for her. I was so happy to have a friend in Spain that I wanted to knit for.

Sigh. So, it was a pretty good week after all.

Thanks, everyone, for the loving up.

Besos a todos.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

The Dia Zone / La Zona del Dia


The Dia is the cheapo grocery store a half a block away. We go there almost every day to get milk or butter or toilet paper. Our kitchen is probably about standard by Spanish or European standards, but by American standards, it is very small. We call it our Barbie Doll kitchen. So, we have to shop often since there is no storage space. Therefore, we have to make frequent visits to The Dia Zone.

One of the first things we noticed when we got here was that the cashiers are really, really grumpy. Always. Generally, I am insecure about offending people. So I assume when someone is grumpy it is because I have offended them. In the early days here, I assumed that I offended the Dia Grumps by not speaking fast enough, by touching the fruit (I couldn’t read the sign that said not to), because I couldn’t understand how much they said I owed, because I couldn’t get my money counted fast enough, by simply being American. I don’t know. I just assumed that it was my fault.

I would spend every minute that I had to wait in line reciting over and over in my head what I needed to say to the Dia Grump. But eventually, I noticed that those ladies were grumpy with everyone else, too. This helped me relax. And once I started to relax, I could look around and see what was going on around me. And that’s when we started to call it The Dia Zone.

First, they don’t have enough change. Dia is a very large chain of grocery stores. It is not a mom and pop operation. You might expect that they would be well equipped and well stocked. But you would be wrong. The most surprising shortage they have is their lack of change. They simply don’t have enough small bills or coins to give their customers change.

At first I assumed it was my problem. The bank machine doles out 50 Euro notes. Eventually you have to use the darn things. The cashier would look at me in disgust and ask if I had anything smaller. “No. Lo siento. I’m so sorry, no, I don’t have anything smaller.” She would grumble and slap the change in my hand.

Later though, Jack came home from the Dia reporting that they simply didn’t have change. He had run out for one small item and was gone for almost an hour. He had stood in line forever waiting for each person in front of him to go through the same routine with the Grumps. No change. People in line were pulling lint out of their pockets looking for exact change. People went through the checkout only to learn that they couldn’t buy their groceries because the cashier had no change. Abandoned groceries littered the narrow aisle. What to do? And still the Grump stood at her cash register: “Next?”

And so it goes. Now I only go to the Dia when I have small bills and lots of coins. Interesting approach to commerce in a cash based society. But, I’m learning and trying to adapt. They also run out of other standard items such as tissues, yogurt, soap, etc. Everyone is paranoid about el Gripe (the flu), so I can see the run on tissues, but it’s darn inconvenient.

The Dia Zone has other treats as well. There is always a homeless person stationed at the door begging. There are three regulars, one of whom Jack has befriended. Once a week Jack gives him a Euro, and Jack is rewarded with no hassles for the rest of the week. Now that he’s seen Jack and me together, I think he has extended this courtesy to me as well. This man is simply delightful now, always ready with an eager smile and “Buenas! ¿Que tal?”

I caught one of the regular homeless chaps outside the Dia last Saturday afternoon engaged in his ablutions. I kid you not, the man was shaving his breast. One side of his chest was hairy as could be while he worked away at the other with a disposable razor. When I came out of the Dia he was dry shaving his face.

Mind you, this is not a bad neighborhood by any stretch of the imagination. It’s a great neighborhood. I feel absolutely safe here, and love that we had the good fortune to land here. I think this is just living in the big city.

Or rather, I think it is living in La Zona del Dia. Always interesting. Always an adventure. Just like the rest of Madrid.

Why are we here?

On the hard days, I wonder why we are doing this. Why are we here? Why are we putting the kids through this?

In some respects, it doesn’t matter why we came, though it does matter why we stay. When we decided to come we had lofty goals – we would all learn Spanish, we would make Spanish friends, we’d learn to love another country and culture. I’m not sure that I still hold any of those ambitions as goals any more. Yes, it will be nice if we learn some Spanish. Yes, we are meeting a few people, some Spanish, many foreign. And yes, we can get a glimpse of Spain. But we cannot know Spain like I’d hoped we could. A year is not long enough.

So, what do we get out of being here? At this point, I don’t think it’s about knowing a place, a people or a language well. I think, ultimately, for us, this year will be -- and is -- about us. We will know for certain what it is like to be foreigners. We will learn more about how we handle stress, humility, confusion, adversity, etc. It’s less about this place than it is about being dropped into deep water and seeing how we manage to keep our heads above it. To keep breathing until we’re on dry land again.

And maybe that’s enough. In fact, that’s a lot. And it takes a lot of pressure off trying to accomplish something that was impractical from the beginning.

I have agonized a fair amount about not doing this well. About not being good at taking full advantage of everything here. Of every second. Every opportunity. Of being a good exchange student, as it were. News flash for me: There is no good way or bad way to be here, any more than there is a good way or bad way of living all the rest of life. There’s just our family here, or wherever, and loving each other. That’s what is either good or bad. Have I loved Jack and Alex and Anna today in a way that they feel loved and secure?

So I missed the Matisse exhibit. So I haven’t found the fabulous food Madrid is supposed to offer. So I haven’t taken any Spanish culture or cooking classes.

The better question is, did I wrap my arms around my crying child and provide a tiny bit of comfort so that she will be better able to deal with the situation tomorrow? Am I giving the kids the support they need so that they will discover their own ability to cope with being here? Hard question when what they really, really want is to have friends, have some autonomy and normalcy, and kind of, just want to go home.

We knew in advance that this would be hard. But we thought that since we knew that that would be the case, that it wouldn’t really be so bad. Nope. It’s just as hard.

Friday, October 2, 2009

Olympic sized pins and needles


Earlier today, waiting for an Olympic party to happen. Madrileños paint the Madrid 2016 symbol with Rubiks Cubes (weird)

All of Madrid has been on pins and needles all day waiting to hear if they get to host the 2016 Summer Olympics.

All over town there are parties in the street waiting to happen. Across from the Palacio Real people have been hanging around waiting for the party.

We decided to watch the live voting action from home where we have more translation tools at hand.

AND NOW THEY HAVE A FINAL VOTE -- BUT THEY AREN'T TELLING FOR A WHOLE HOUR. Why is it that the Olympics can declare a winner by a millionth of a second - but it takes an hour to announce the results of this vote? Crazy.

We've been a little cynical about this Madrid bid for the Olympics. But we are all now rooting for our (now) home team. GO, MADRID! GO!

Bummer about the Obama coat tails not working out for Chicago.

I'm still skeptical. But, if Madrid gets it, we're going down to that party!!