Monday, August 31, 2009

There's such a thing as too many castles


In fact, there's such a thing as too much or too many of anything. Even things that are really cool. We visited the Rhine River where there are so many castles in such a compact area that pretty soon, we were completely saturated. The sad thing is that if you encountered any one of them, one at a time, it would be a great adventure. When we planned our days along the Rhine, I thought we could spend days exploring the dozens of beautiful castles in the area near St. Goar where we stayed. From our pension, we could see three castles. Along a ten mile stretch of the river, there were well over a dozen castles in various conditions - from ruins to restored to period conditions to renovated hotels. In the end, though, there was really just one that we'll remember for a long time.

Rheinfels Castle was an enormous compound that supported a huge community of people. There are lots of foundations and walls left, lots interesting history to learn. But, ultimately, it's about your personal experience. The absolutely best part of our visit was crawling through tunnels built outside the castle walls that historically were packed with explosives and then ignited at just the right time to blow up the attacking enemy. They were Medieval booby traps, and we were going down there!

We descended into the 3 foot tall tunnel (even Anna had to duck) with our single candle and the LED flashlight included on our cheap Spanish cell phone. Our information wasn't entirely clear about the correct path to follow, so some of us got the jitters and we backed out. Then we gathered courage - okay, so there might have been some subtle coercion - and back down we went. This time the scary tunnel was a little less scary. We peeked down the side tunnels where the castle guards packed gunpowder; we wondered if we were going the right way; we made scary noises for each other; we crouched even lower to get through narrower sections. We giggled with nervousness and delight. Eventually the tunnel surfaced once again, and we could relive the tunnel moments over and over throughout the day.

Sure seeing how the knights lived was cool. Seeing where they poured hot tar on the approaching enemies was cool. Seeing the apothecary, and the spinning wheels and looms and armor was great. Seeing a concrete example of all that stuff you read about in children's books about castle life in the Middle Ages - yes - that's pretty cool. But none of it will match the experience that we four shared down in the tunnel.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Novillada






I didn’t think we’d go to a bullfight while we were here. But it was kids' choice, and Alex chose bullfighting. I’m not sure if he really knew what that meant. Nonetheless, we honored his request. I think Jack and I were both curious too. And Anna thought it was actually a competition in which the bull had a choice. She kept asking, “What if the bull gives up? What happens to him then?” “Honey, the bull always dies. Even if he gores the bull fighter and kind of wins, the bull still dies.” I found this difficult to talk about. I found it difficult to admit that we were even there. I wondered if I would be able to tell friends at home.

The first bull was difficult to watch. You do absolutely witness the death of a great animal. Gruesome. We were sitting in the nosebleed section (so we could afford to sit in the shade), but the primo high-altitude seats are right on the railing. The seats were fabulous, actually. But since we were leaning over the railing with folks below us, Anna warned us that someone down there might get puked on. We both volunteered to take her out. But she refused. She thought she’d stick it out for another bull and see how she was feeling.

Then the second novillada came out. Novilladas are young bulls – less than four years old - “fought” by young matadors. Again, money saving strategy, it’s like going to a minor league game. We were all strangely transfixed. The second matador was much more skilled and far more artistic than the first. It’s a dance – a very formalized, testosterone driven dance. And the second man we watched was a much finer dancer. Even we could tell.

There are six bulls in the evening. Each follows the same ritual. Each meets the same end, eventually. But each episode was very different. And oddly, I enjoyed it.

We were all pretty quiet on the Metro ride home. Jack mentioned something about maybe we’d go again before the end of the year – maybe in another six months or so. I was struck at that moment by the fact that I really didn’t want to wait six months to go again, and I thought I’d like to see the big leagues next time. I was embarrassed to admit it, but I did, also the fact that I was feeling guilty about this. Alex admitted to the same feeling.

16 de agosto de 2009. Novillada con picadores.
Diego Lleonart: Palmas, Silencio
Paco Chaves: Vuelta al ruedo, Saludos tras un aviso
Antonio Rosales: Saludos con un aviso, Vuelta al ruedo
Seis novillos de Torrehandilla
Con mi familia.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

The Crypt


Under Madrid’s Cathedral (Catedral de la Almudena), we find the Crypt. It is an outing that 1) has no line, 2) is not expensive, and 3) is close to the other outings that we bailed on because they were expensive with long lines. It turns out that even better than the above, it is also blissfully cool. Therefore, we have landed under the Cathedral. It’s another fancy church where they bury people: impressive vaulted ceilings, lots of side chapels, big nave. I love exploring churches, so I’m glad we are here.

I have started collecting photos of the tops of things. The tops of train stations, the tops of monuments, the tops of lamp posts, the tops of fountains. The tops of things, all kinds of things, are pretty spectacularly ornate. So when we almost accidentally arrive in the crypt, it is a windfall for my Tops of Things collection. The claim to fame here is the crypt’s 500 columns, each with a unique capital. I am reminded of the gargoyles at the National Cathedral in Washington DC who warrant their own guided tours. Some are simply ornate. But soon the adventure begins. Who is this guy? What story does that one tell? What did that nun do? Is that the court jester? Flying horses and dragons?








Thursday, August 13, 2009

We cross the world to learn about home




We were enjoying lunch in a bar chosen for its beer selection; they had Chimay on tap. Jack was in heaven. We were sitting at a table next to a window when we start noticing that there was a veritable parade of people outside posing for photos in front of our window. After awhile we determined that the draw was a tower of Duff beer on display in our window. Not knowing what Duff beer was, we were bewildered. Most of the folks who were showing such delight in the photo op appeared to be young men. So we presumed that this Duff beer must be frat boy swill. We had to come home and Google it to understand.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Brush your teeth


The napkins at restaurants and bars often include the message: Thanks for your visit! But yesterday, we tried someplace new - Taberna de Moncloa - my favorite by far of all the little restaurants and bars we've been to. It was the most comfortable, and I can't wait to go back. It's just like being at Mom's, including the message on the napkins: Don't forget to brush your teeth after every meal.

When your dad is an evolutionary biologist


Today was kids' choice day - so we went to the Madrid zoo. Alex was a little worried that the bears would fall off the ledge of their enclosure. So I launched into the whole thing with him: "What do you think a bear would do faced with this situation in the wild? If animals weren't smart enough to figure this out, what do you think would happen to them as a species?" Poor kid never gets a break. So Jack weighs in: "Yes, a perfect example is the bear species from Patagonia know as the Dumb Ass Bear." Presumably they aren't around anymore.

Then we headed over to the dolphin show where they did a Michael Jackson tribute. Weird watching all those dolphins and dolphin trainers booging down to Thriller.

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Crystal Palace holds: two stuffed animals





Here's another mystery from our visit to Retiro today. There is a fabulous space called Palacio de Cristal - the Crystal Palace. Jack visited it in March and remembers there being interesting sculpture here. But now, there are two life sized stuffed animals hanging like peanuts high inside this space. Nothing else here except a pile of brochures titled: Are Animals People?

Billboards



I couldn't resist these. Especially the green guy.

The Boating Situation in Madrid


Retiro - Madrid's Central Park

Buffy Cazavampiros (Buffy the Vampire Slayer)


First, you have to say Buffy correctly. U in Spanish is pronounced like oo in moon. So in Spain it’s Boofy who’s running around kicking, well, vampiros. This is the value of that TV that we carried all the way home on the Metro. A Spanish prof at UNR told me months ago to watch Spanish on TV to learn Spanish. He said you need to engage as many senses as possible to learn. The great thing about watching Boofy over and over again (it’s on 4 or 5 times a night) is the level of repetition is very helpful to learning. Every night I learn a little bit more. But I’m afraid Jack is getting sick of Boofy and her friends. So he might be cutting us off.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Final score


How many trips does it take to get a copy of the apartment keys?

1 - Trip to ferretaria down the block. I just love this word ferretaria since it sounds like a store to buy ferrets. Fer means iron. It's the hardware store.
2 - The shoe repair and key store around the corner. (closed)
3 - Same store again - open, and he ruins are key. AND he's grumpy. Alex cleverly decides that he's probably pretty embarrassed to botch the job.
4 - Benito gets one copy at a new serious key shop. We need to wait several days for that shop to get the blank key from another town.
5 - At the store, they tell me, Manana
6 - Again. Manana.
7 - Luego (later today).
8 - SUCCESS! We finally have two sets of keys and are no longer so dependent on each other.

Final score = 8

Too cool



Something exciting is happening but we’re not sure what it is. There are two identical entrances to our building, and there are camera crews carrying equipment in to the other half of the building. In front of the building there are trucks loaded with costumes and hair and makeup chairs. There is a table of food on the sidewalk (the kids are eyeing that). Cool looking guys are standing around. Too cool to go up to and ask in idiot talk “what’s up?” Sure we could let ¿Que pasa? roll off our tongues, but then we’d be standing there looking like fools, unable to appreciate just how very cool the people are who are being filmed right here in our building. Therefore, I’m acting too cool to care. We’ll just outcool them with our indifference.
_____________

Later we see Benito standing outside watching all the action. He confirms that it is in fact the filming of a pelicula (movie). What movie? we ask. He doesn't know. But he assures us that no one famous is here.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

En la piscina

Today we decide to take a break from getting stuff done and take the kids to the pool. We went to the pool in Casa de Campo – an enormous park on the east side of the city that used to be royal hunting grounds until the 1930s. During the Civil War Franco used the area as a strong hold. Now, it’s a massive public natural resource.

I guess I was a little concerned that we’d find a dumpy, dirty, crowded pool. Instead, we find three beautiful crystal clear pools that aren’t very crowded at all. They are absolutely delightful – it’s like a park within the pool area. This could definitely be a regular destination for us – especially in the notorious August heat.

This is the most civilized public pool I’ve ever seen, in fact. In addition to the three outdoor and one indoor pool, there is a little outside library from which you can check out reading material during your visit and decent selection food and drink at the café.

Observations:
- If you’ve got a great looking body and a tight, flesh colored swim suit, it doesn’t leave much to the imagination…wait, maybe that’s not a swim suit he’s wearing, it’s just his pale butt.
- We have swim suits on that cover more flesh than most of the other bathers. I’ve taken to wearing “boy short” swim bottoms recently with my bikini top. I look ridiculous among this crowd of thong bikini bottoms. A real prude. Alex is the only person in this whole place with a swim shirt on. Almost makes him look like a religious conservative next to the rest of the crowd.
- This is the kids’ first exposure to toplessness. They seem pretty nonplussed.
- Generally people are a lot thinner here.
- The generally handsome physiques and lack of clothing make for nice P.W. (Alex and Mom code for people watching). Which is, of course, the point.
- The better the body, the less flesh covered. Especially for the men. Few of the women have much covered regardless of physique.

Keywords to learn today: la piscina = pool, climatizado = heated (or air conditioned in another context), nadar = to swim, socorrista = lifeguard.

I’ve often wondered in the US why some immigrants don’t try harder to integrate and blend in. However, in England as an exchange student, I was always somewhat uncomfortable in my own skin because I was always an outsider, regardless of how much I attempted to blend in. I didn’t want to be prejudged as an American. But to some extent, it’s not possible to just blend in for most people. Your skin, hair, glasses, clothes, accent, personal space, smell – and stuff that you’re completely unaware of – all give you away. It’s just more or less for any given person. But ultimately, to be an American does not mean to be an ugly American. So, the hell with it. I’m just going to wear my baseball cap and Keens and shorts and have Americano written all over myself. As Harriet M Welch says, “Anyway, don’t think about it.”

The big meal of the day is midday here – sort of like lunch but later – like 2-4 pm. Then in the late evening folks have a very light meal – kind of snacking. I didn’t really think we’d readily adopt this schedule. But it’s absolutely natural. For one thing, the heat makes it the only desirable plan. Ysabel told us that the Spanish clock is two hours off of the sun time. I didn’t understand what she meant until yesterday when I looked up at 2pm and the sun was straight up (high noon). Now I see what she means. We feel like it’s 5:30 pm by the sun when it’s 7:30 pm. This is why we’re having such a hard time adjusting to the time. We’re used to being tired a couple hours after dark, but here that means it’s really late. So we’ve been going to bed around 1 am and getting up late. But what’s late on the clock (10-11:00 am) is really about 8 – 9:00 am by the sun, which isn’t so bad. So, I’ve decided to stop worrying about it.

We decided to have that lunchy/dinnery meal at the pool at about 5 today. We had a heck of a time figuring the system out and it pushed us from stressed to grumpy status. Really grumpy. At this point, Jack usually takes over the ordering. For some reason this is particularly difficult for me. Asking for directions, no sweat. But ordering food can drive me over the edge. Jack gets a plate of pasta, and the guy says “blah, blah, blah” to Jack as he hands him his dish. Jack smiles and says “gracias” with great confidence and walks away. “What did he say?” I ask. And cool as a cucumber he says, “No idea” and walks to the table only to realize that he has an inedible cold pasta dish. I am in tears laughing. This usually freaks out the rest of the family when I lose control like this. It’s my release after utter embarrassment or frustration. All at once Jack jumps up with understanding and warms his pasta up in a microwave. After the gafaws, I bribe Anna with a 1 Euro reward if she’ll go order a drink for herself.

These are little moments, but collectively what this whole thing is like. Not knowing the system, not knowing the language, not knowing…..

There is the fantasy that you go to a foreign country, especially France or Spain, and with no effort eat wonderful meals and have a glorious time. It’s not that way. Food is damn hard. Much of the time you get a crappy meal and are exhausted in the getting, so you don’t even care because you just have to eat something. I'm just hoping that I lose weight this way. But I don’t notice any clothes fitting better yet. I can hope.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

PWR - People Without Rides


We have fully embraced being what Mark and Willie Walker call PWRs. We managed to carry a 21” flat screen TV (can you believe we have a digital TV?), a large floor fan, a folding laundry rack, and a few bags of various Ikea goods all on the train home – including multiple line transfers.

We’re looking at the TV as critical aspect of our Spanish lessons. We want to be able to listen to Spanish in a no pressure situation. Like the long line at the store after ringing up our TV and fan and various other bits and pieces when the cashier said the credit card wouldn’t go through without a passport and we didn’t have it, and all the people in line didn’t think this was very funny and then you start to get nervous and it’s hard to remember the right words as you’re thinking as fast as you can about how to get cash fast and say you’ll be right back as the peeps in line start to get restless. Anyway, Anna is in watching Real Madrid right now (eat your heart out Lou). Course, we can’t understand a word they are saying….

I have no hesitation most of the time to plunge in with my dozen verbs and extremely limited vocabulary and mostly present tense. But it’s just dang boring. My communication is boring. “Where is the …?” "I would like..." “We need to …” but since there are only a few verbs to choose from, there aren’t very many things I can tell people we need to do.

Nonetheless, I was so pleased with myself yesterday for telling our wonderful porter Benito that “Tengo un problema grande.” Though I completely botch everything – for some odd reason I remembered that problema is un problema instead of una problema – despite what you’d think. So I was smiling inside at this tiny victory at not sounding like a foreigner (HA, HA, HA).

Once we get life basics in order, language lessons are next. I’m already really tired of speaking like a 2 year old.