Würzburg, Germany

In 1906, Jack’s grandfather, Stefan Kranz, left Artzheim, Germany. He left behind 9 siblings. Stefan, like his father and all of his brothers, was an iron worker. He arrived on the ship Amerika and passed through Ellis Island on his way to New York.

In the 1920s Jack’s grandmother, Carolina “Lina” Schebendach, left Würzburg, Germany headed for the United States. She, too, left behind many brothers and sisters on her way to New York.

Stefan and Lina met each other in New York and married.

Then there was the terrible war.

On March 16, 1945, just before the end of the war, the British troops fire bombed Würzburg. In 25 minutes the centuries-old city was destroyed and fire consumed the rubble, as well as thousands of its citizens. Lina’s family survived the initial attack. However, her brother Conrad died of smoke inhalation a month later. While the city was burning and most of its citizens sought refuge from the flames in the river Main, Conrad went to the cathedral to help rescue the bishop and important church artifacts.

During the years that followed the end of the war Lina’s family, like most of Germany, was in dire need of food and basic living supplies. For years Lina sent monthly care packages from New York to her family in Würzburg, while at home, she and Stefan raised their twin daughters, Ann and Mary. Those packages were a godsend to the family in Germany.

Lina’s daughter Ann is Jack’s mother. And by the time Jack came along in the 50s, the family in Germany was doing fine. But the memory of those packages in the years of need stayed fresh in their minds. For years, even after Lina’s death, her siblings and their children sent a special Christmas package to Jack’s house every Christmas filled with German Christmas treats. Jack has always remembered these boxes filled with Germany delights as a special part of his family’s holidays. The story of the packages to family back in the Old Country and later the Christmas packages of gratitude are an important part of the family lore.

In 1975, when Jack was a teenager, one of the Ann’s cousins – Lina’s brother Beno’s son Bernard – came to visit Jack’s family in New York. Bernard (Bernd) and his wife Elizabeth (Li) were newlyweds and on a grand adventure. Bernd had grown up in Würzburg hearing tales of the boxes of supplies from America, and he came across the ocean to meet these long lost relatives. Bernd and Li met Lina’s twin daughters, Ann and Mary, as well as all of their children – seven in all.

Ann and Jack have had sporadic communication with Bernd and Li over the years, but certainly not a sustained correspondence.

Then came our escape from the heat of Spain last month. On a moment’s notice, we purchased tickets to Frankfurt and planned a couple days in the Rhine River Valley with the thought that we’d make up the rest of the trip as we went. In the back of Jack’s mind was his mother’s cousin and his wife – the affable couple who visited his family over 30 years ago.

With some hesitation, Jack decided to phone Bernd and Li in Würzburg and see if they would be available for lunch. To our delight, they invited us to their home for dinner and even to stay for the night. I must admit that those of us who had not been a part of this long family story were a little shy about the impending visit.

That’s the easy part of the story to tell. Because the next day and a half were amazing. Filled with fun and laughter and stories of Jack’s family and the history of Würzburg. There’s so much to tell and remember from our visit, that it’s difficult to summarize.

Li is a Montessori teacher who among her many, many talents has a strong background in her community’s history. Her guided tour of Würzburg included fascinating and poignant tales of the city – from Medieval times up through today, with many stories about the war. Most of the city has been rebuilt on the foundations that remained after the bombing. So though it is an ancient town, many buildings are reconstructed replicas.





In an exhibit at the Rathaus (town hall) Bernd showed us a pre-war photo of where his father and Lina and their family lived along the river Main. Then we walked along those streets imaging Lina as a young girl here before the bombing.



We walked through the Cathedral, pondering the difficult choices the community made when integrating the ruins with contemporary art and architecture as they rebuilt this important edifice. At the main entrance a menorah stands to remind all who visit that Judaism is the root of Christianity. Its presence is both powerful and chilling. The nave hosts sculpture from as long ago as he 1400s, as well as a strikingly contemporary tabernacle that feels strangely out of place. According to Li, many of the most important items in rebuilt churches are built in a contemporary style.



We saw this and much much, more of Würzberg: the best bratworst in town, the Rocco church, the castle with its tower and many tales, the Residence of the Prince Bishop, the historic crane on the river powered by a interior human sized hamster wheel, etc. But the real treat was just being with Li and Bernd, seeing their love of each other, their children, and their community. Their home is a treasury of their own art and their passion for life. Several walls are filled with Li’s etchings of the same buildings and landmarks we walked around earlier in the day. Windows and doors and light fixtures are stained glass works by Bernd. Their rooms are decorated with fascinating collections demonstrating the family’s interests and sense of fun. Everywhere there are clever, interesting solutions for living efficiently and compactly. Bernd fed us fabulous home cooked meals and shared his home made raspberry wine with us.





And when we left, we were happy to have found not just long lost family, but we hope more importantly long time friends. When we left, Li invited us all back and told Anna and Alex that they were always welcome in Bernd and Li’s home in Germany – even if the next time they come is when they are all grown up.



Next: Arzheim